Undeciphered inscriptions in south Arabia…

Inscriptions in known Hadrami script have been found at Khor Rori, Hanun and Wadi Andhur. However, it wasn’t until relatively recently that further inscriptions, this time in a previously unknown script, were discovered. Since about 1988 many of these inscriptions have been documented by local historian, Ali Ahmed Al-Shahri*. He has documented more than 250 sites containing  this language. The texts are painted on the walls of caves in the Dhofar mountains or pecked onto rocks further north in the Nejd. While the language remains undeciphered it is clearly related to the South Semitic script.

Some think that this undeciphered script is the written form of the language that is spoken in the Dhofar Mountains to this day – Shehri, more commonly known as Jibbali.

Dhofar Cave painting GI10523RM

© Ross Hayden. Cave painting in Wadi Darbat.

As well as the inscriptions, there are many cave paintings of domesticated animals (camels, cows, goats, horses) as well as wild animals (ibex, wolves, leopards, foxes).

Dhofar cave painting GI10572RM

© Ross Hayden. Cave painting in Wadi Darbat.

Al-Shahri reached the following conclusions about the incidence of inscriptions and drawings in Dhofar: the largest number of inscriptions and drawings were found in areas distant from well-worn mountain passes and routes taken by caravans. The inscriptions were, in fact, mostly found in areas heavily used by herders and their animals. Inscriptions and drawings were only found in caves which would have been suitable for human habitation. Often the subject of the drawings varies with locality – for example, ibex in the high dry plateaux; palm trees and boats near the coastal plains. However, the techniques, style of inscriptions and drawings, and the materials used are very similar wherever they occur throughout the region.

* Al-Shahri, A. A. (1991). Recent Epigraphic Discoveries in Dhofar. Proceedings of the Seminar for Arabian Studies, 21, 173-191.

Gifts for the King

Ross Hayden. Frankincense Burner

© Ross Hayden. Frankincense Burner

The men from the East see the star halting

Over the place where the Christ Child lies.

Their long journey seemingly at an end;

His just beginning.

They present their costly gifts

To the Child King.

“Look  at me!” Gold boldly proclaims,

“I am indeed a gift fit for a King”.

Frankincense speaks…

Ross Hayden © 2001 Salalah, Sultanate of Oman

Baobabs in Dhofar

One of my favourite places in Dhofar to retreat to is Wadi Hinna. Half way up the mountainside you come to a spring – Ain Hashair.   The waters of this spring – and the annual khareef – have kept a stand of 30 or 40 baobab trees (Adansonia digitata) alive for perhaps 1000 years. This particular species of tree originates in Africa, but it is found in Dhofar in only two particular locations – here in Wadi Hinna (40 km east of Salalah) and near Dhalkut (150 km west of Salalah) not far from the Yemen border.

Huge baobab tree during khareef

© Ross Hayden. Huge baobab tree during khareef

Among the scattered stand of baobab trees in this valley there is one specimen that is particularly memorable. It is possibly the largest baobab in the region with a girth of 20 metres! I love to sit at its feet, or carefully clamber up its slippery armour-clad trunk to perch in a fork of its gigantic branches.

© Ross Hayden. Camel standing beneath huge baobab tree.

© Ross Hayden. Camel standing beneath huge baobab tree.

I found it difficult to take a photograph which shows its massive size, until one day an obliging camel posed under its spreading limbs.

Ali Ahmed Al-Shahri

Ali Ahmed Ali Mahash Al-Shahri

© Ross Hayden. Ali Ahmed Al-Shahri

Ali Ahmed is well-known, especially in Oman, as an author, researcher, and archaeologist.

He is particularly known for his systematic and tireless recording of ancient paintings and inscriptions found on walls of caves, on rocks or other places in the Dhofar region of southern Oman.

Since the late 1980s he has discovered paintings and inscriptions in over 250 locations in Dhofar. He has photographed these and recorded their location for posterity.

Additionally, he has written two voluminous books and several scholarly articles on his findings, including other aspects of Dhofari customs and culture.

Arabia Felix (Happy Arabia)

© Ross Hayden. Hamran Fort

© Ross Hayden. Hamran Fort

As you read through the history and stories I’ve recorded here, and see the photos, I trust that you too will feel some positive vibes from this lovely corner of the Middle East.

Arched Window (Dhofar, Oman)

Arched Window - Dhofar, Oman

© Ross Hayden. Arched Window - Dhofar, Oman

This photo was taken in an abandoned villa in the picturesque coastal town of Mirbat.

An old prayer mat is hanging on a peg on the right, and a half coconut shell used for washing or drinking is up-ended on the shelf, both nostalgic reminders of the way things were.